We always love admiring Tom Hiddleston or Ryan Gosling dressing in their suits of perfect fit, but little do we know that variations in the lapel make a significant difference in the look. Today, I am going to talk about that small little detail on the lapel, which is almost unnoticeable and that people often overlook, and it would be the lapel gorge.
(Position of Lapel Gorge)
Lapel gorge is the connecting point between the collar and the lapel of suit jacket. Seemingly unimportant, lapel gorge can greatly impact the look of your jacket. You are able to achieve the best fit for your body structure by adjusting the lapel gorge, together with the other aspects of the lapel.
In general, lapel gorge lies on your collarbones or is at about the same level as your shoulders. During the 20th century, suits are usually seen with a lower gorge. As we stepped into the 21st century, gents started to wear higher lapel gorges, and in recent years, some might be so high that the lapel gorges are on top of their shoulders. So, what are the differences?
(High Gorge Suit Jacket)
When the lapel gorge is higher, the widest part of the lapel will naturally be higher too. This would make your chest visually broader, and it would also make you look slightly taller as the focus is now pulled upwards. High lapel gorge results in a more masculine frame as compared to lower lapel gorge, hence the increasing trend in high lapel gorge.
(Low Gorge Suit Jacket)
While low lapel gorge complements a classic style, gents who prefer a modern and rakish look would go for high lapel gorge. This is also why high lapel gorge is the in-thing in recent years. Despite that, low lapel gorges are able to draw more attention to the already eye-catching lapels, allowing a creation of fashion statement.
(Comparison between High and Low Lapel Gorge)
Trends aside, how do you know what suits you best? High lapel gorge is recommended for smaller guys, with a lower buttoning stance to lengthen the lapels so as to look less short. However if you are tall and skinny, a lower gorge with slightly higher buttoning stance would be better. Length of the lapels will be reduced, while the section below the button is longer. This adds weight to your physique and lessens the emphasis of your slim body. (Read on more about your body structure here.)
It is natural to seek to achieve “fashion forward”. However you should not compromise your look just to be in vogue. For an instance, many fashion brands or tailors are producing suits with elevated lapel gorges, but that doesn’t mean that it would fit you. The Slights should also avoid low lapel gorges, you are gonna look like someone who walked out of history textbook. Search for the in-between, where your bests are accentuated without looking outdated!
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