Is It True Unlined Jackets Are Better?

When you opt to go for a MTM suit or sports jacket, you may be overwhelmed with the amount of options that are available. From the jacket style to the buttons, these are details that will be visible to others and allow you to express your style and personality. However, when it comes to your jacket linings, did you know that you have options for that as well?

Here at Assemble, it is all about customizability and your jacket lining is as important as anything else as it is sits right in your jacket interior between the canvas and your body. While you will be wearing a shirt, the jacket lining definitely still plays a part in the overall comfort of your jacket. This varies from the material of the lining (eg. Viscose, Cupro, or Silk) to the lining construction inside the jacket.

There are 4 types of lining constructions—fully lined, half-lined, quarter-lined, and unlined. To ask the question “Is it true that an unlined jacket is better?”, is an invalid question to ask. The reason being that there isn’t a specific answer to that question. Let’s discuss what your options are.

Fully Lined Jackets

(Left: World Map, Right: Printed Linings Vol. 1 - Adopt Them)

Fully lined jackets are the standard as it is the most durable; and thus helps to maximize the lifespan of your jacket. If you wear a jacket very frequently, you might want to opt to have it lined. It also adds more weight and thickness to the jacket; and as a result, the jacket lays nicely on the contours of the body and drapes cleanly from top to bottom. With a fully lined jacket, it also provides protection to the jacket interior as it helps absorb any sweat you might generate. This reduces the number of trips you have to make to the dry cleaner.

(From left: Printed Linings V1 - Knit Skull, Printed Linings V2 - Sakura, Printed Linings V3 - Hedgehog, Printed Linings V1 - Chuggin' It)

A full lining will also be able to cover all the interior seams and have more allowance for alteration in the future. Moreover, here at Assemble, you can express your creativity and personality by customizing your very own linings to add that personal touch and make it truly one-of-a-kind. Alternatively, you can also choose one from our printed linings collections with over 50 designs! Click here to browse. If you are more conservative, of course we have standard linings available as well.

(Printed Linings V2 - Tokyo City)

However, no matter which option you choose, certain areas of the jacket will always have a lining. First, the sleeves will always be lined to enable your arms to pass through with ease. Next, the shoulder pads will always be covered with lining for comfort. Lastly, both the interior and exterior pockets will be lined for functionality; and it sure adds a nice detail if you opt to have a printed lining as shown in the image above.

Unlined Jackets

You may be familiar with seeing unlined and unstructured jackets in the local tailoring scene. Unlined jackets are considerably popular as it keeps you cooler and is very suitable for our tropical climate all year-round. It is important to take note that this only works best with the right fabrics; particularly porous and open weave ones like Hopsack, Linen, Seersucker, Fresco Wool, or even a Wool/Linen blend. The unlined structure helps to promote the breathability of the fabric. You might be wondering, “Hey! Isn’t the cost supposed to be cheaper since there’s lesser lining fabric involved?” However, that is a common misconception. This option will be more expensive as more of the jacket fabric is required for the front of the jacket interior where the inside pockets are as shown in the image above.

Additionally, having your jacket unlined will also have extra workmanship costs as it requires more finishing on all the interior seams which would otherwise be exposed. In the image above, you can see how all the seams are lined beautifully with the pattern of the windowpane checks being matched as well. This makes everything neat, but with very little allowance to spare if alterations are needed in the future.

Partially Lined Jackets

With fully lined and unlined jackets having quite a big difference, there is also an option with partial linings as a middle ground. You may often hear your tailor talking about half-lined or quarter-lined jackets. So, what is the difference? Half-lined jackets usually have lining across the upper half of the back and on the sides of the jacket interior, but not on the lower half. Quarter-lined jackets are very similar but without the lining on the sides of the jacket interior. Either options are great as they give you the structure that a suit should have, while giving you decent airflow at the same time.

Conclusion

Knowing how you want the final outcome of your suit or sports jacket to be and what the purpose it’s for will help you determine which lining construction is best for you. As mentioned in this editorial, there are many great fabric options out there for a partially lined or unlined jacket if you are looking for something more casual or something great for travel. Otherwise, fully lined will always be the best option for durability and versatility. Like all good things, keep in mind to always weigh the pros and cons. So, the more appropriate question to ask is “Which type of lined jacket is best for me?”.

If you have any other questions, feel free to hit us up at +65 8742 6863 and we would be happy to assist you. You can also book an appointment by clicking here. Be sure to follow us on Instagram at @assemblesg and like us on Facebook!

Written by YINGHAO TAN

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